A two-page spread in the August edition of Vogue has sparked controversy for using AI models
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What happens when the world’s most respected, self-appointed fashion bible quietly takes a step outside of its traditional aesthetic? On newsstands in early August 2025, Vogue’s much‑anticipated August issue serves business as usual; glossy, authoritative, impeccably curated. However, nestled between Anne Hathaway’s immaculate image on the cover and editorials covering female leadership in fashion and the representation of women in sports, lies an unassuming two‑page spread for Guess, labelled discreetly “Produced by Seraphinne Vallora on AI.” At first glance, the campaign’s flawless, hyper‑symmetrical blonde model sitting with a cup of coffee in one image, and leaning against a blue wall in another, looks like all of the other photoshopped ads that we see in glossy publications, treading the line between photorealism and impossible beauty standards. But beneath these uber perfect images of an AI-generated model lies a tectonic shift: the dawn of fully synthetic imagery in the pages of fashion’s most esteemed publication.
AI-Generated Models Versus Photoshopped Imagery
The Guess ad, commissioned through Paris‑based creative house Seraphinne Vallora, was created using generative algorithms trained on runway looks, campaign shots and studio lighting setups. The founders of Seraphinne Vallora, Valentina Gonzalez and Andreea Petrescu, told the BBC that they were asked to create the AI model for this campaign by Paul Marciano, co-founder of Guess, via a message on Instagram.
By producing the campaign using AI tools, there was no need for a casting director, green room, or a retoucher. In a much shorter space of time than traditional shoots, the AI tools were still used to create a model whose every angle, expression and shadow conformed to an idealised beauty standard; but, until recently, these images were only possible after human teams had crafted them over weeks of back‑and‑forth. Vogue’s transparent labelling did little to dull the shockwaves caused by this alternative method of image creation and refinement. Industry insiders and loyal readers alike paused; if AI can manufacture a model this convincingly, what becomes of the humans whose careers, identities and artistry define fashion’s legacy?
Subscriber Backlash
Within hours of the issue’s release, social feeds lit up. Long‑time subscribers announced cancellations; digital forums teemed with the disbelief and outrage of readers who felt somehow duped by this method of image creation. Even die‑hard advocates of technological progress found themselves questioning the trade‑off between efficiency and authenticity. In an industry that thrives on storytelling through faces, gestures and moments, however “curated” or manipulated, Vogue’s experiment posed a stark question: can perfectly rendered pixels ever replace the imperfect pulse of “real” life?
This, in turn, raises deeper questions about artistry, ethics and evolution that this unheralded Guess spread has ignited; questions Vogue’s glossy pages have never before had to answer so directly. Could this be another case of those in power using AI to introduce automation where it is not wanted?
Humans Or Technology First?
At its core, the Vogue‑Guess spread forced a fundamental question: when a perfectly posed AI-generated model replaces a living, breathing model, what do we lose? On social media and industry forums, the reaction has been visceral. Models and their advocates have sounded the alarm about livelihoods hanging in the balance. As Dr Jade McSorley, Head of Knowledge Exchange at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, puts it:
“I can’t help but wonder who really benefits here. Is this just another way for brands to sell more items? As someone who used to model for e-commerce companies, the personality you bring to images is suddenly diminished alongside the spontaneous, co-creative process we have with the whole creative team (all of whom will be impacted).”
That tension, between crafting flawless visuals and preserving human agency, lies at the heart of the debate. Can an algorithm ever capture the lived stories, cultural nuances, and subtle imperfections that give fashion its emotional resonance? Or are we hurtling toward a homogenised ideal that ultimately leaves readers cold?
Matthew Drinkwater, Head of Innovation at the Fashion Innovation Agency at London College of Fashion, offers a different take on things: “The panic over AI-generated models says more about our fear of change than the technology itself. Fashion has never been about preserving the status quo, it thrives on disruption. To suggest that AI ‘steals jobs’ is as reductive as claiming digital photography killed fashion photography; it didn’t, it redefined it. AI models won’t erase human talent, they’ll challenge us to rethink what creativity, representation, and beauty can look like in the 21st century.”
This contrast in views highlights that there is no clear “correct” answer to this issue, but that there are obvious merits to both approaches of image creation for fashion publications. The wider public appear to need some convincing, but things may possibly be a bit clearer for those sitting in the corner offices of fashion brands and industry publications.
The Automated-Authentic Balance
In boardrooms and creative studios, the formula is simple: AI tools can cut campaign costs by upwards of 70 percent, in some cases, and shorten lead times from months to days. On one side of this precarious balance sit the CFOs, dazzled by the promise of infinite model permutations and instant asset generation; on the other, sit the readers, especially discerning Gen Z audiences, craving analogue textures, real bodies and the subtle flaws that signal human artistry. Stitching those impulses into a coherent strategy is the industry’s great challenge.
One person with more than a little expertise on this balance is fashion-tech journalist Maghan McDowell. As a former Innovation Editor at Vogue Business, she has the inside track on the perceptions of these new technologies and their capabilities, from both sides of the equation.
When speaking about the Guess ad in the latest issue of Vogue, McDowell told me: “When I hear about controversies like this, my heart really sinks, because there’s always an inevitable conversation about how art that has any impact from AI is inherently bad–and I think that’s simply not true. But I do think there are bad ways to use it, especially when it’s so new. In this situation, it looks very much like a traditional photo shoot, print ad, and I think the consumer is not there yet. Our eyes are not trained to accept that, our brains are not trained to accept that. I think, especially in these early days, any use of consumer facing AI needs to be disclosed and transparent, not hidden, or not seeming like it’s hidden. Yes, there was an AI disclosure, which was very important, but I don’t think that most people would would have seen it.”
It is also worth noting that this is not Vogue’s first foray into AI-generated content. As McDowell explains, “there have already been editorial photo shoots or editorial projects [using AI-generated content] in various Vogues. I’m thinking of Vogue Singapore, Vogue Italia, Vogue Portugal, who have done legitimate editorial photo shoots that use AI in a way that is more celebrated. And so what we hear about often is when something goes wrong or when something doesn’t land with the public. I think that’s unfortunate, because we don’t talk so much about the more successful uses.”
“It’s not lost on me that this was a print issue of Vogue, and it’s clear that people still very much do care about print magazines. It is creating influence, and the conversation is an important one, about the use of AI and creativity.”
AI-Generated Models: A Greener Future For Fashion Shoots?
AI isn’t just a cost‑cutting measure; it can be a green tool. Fewer on‑site shoots mean less wardrobe waste, lower travel emissions, and smaller production footprints. On the consumer side, virtual try‑on experiences powered by AI avatars can reduce return rates; studies show as much as a 20 percent drop in e‑commerce returns when shoppers see garments on a model matching their exact measurements. That’s a win for wallets and the planet alike.
Vogue’s foray into AI-generated models is more than a provocative ad buy; it’s an inflection point for the entire industry. By confronting the humanity‑algorithm divide, exploring rigorous ethical guardrails, and embracing a hybrid future, brands and media can ensure that technology serves creativity, and not the other way around. In that balance lies the next chapter of fashion storytelling.
